Sunday, September 30, 2012

Being Ms. Alyssa


I have just finished my first two weeks teaching English at Beomeo Public High School in Yangsan City, South Korea.  Unfortunately, my coworkers’ warnings about the school have proved quite appropriate.  The students are unbelievably unruly.  They yell and sleep in class, talk to each other, play StarCraft on their huge smartphones, carry little handheld mirrors and apply copious amounts of makeup during lessons, and constantly kick or hit or touch each other….  That being said, they are also curious, energetic, very endearing, and often have big, wonderful personalities.  If they aren’t frustrating me, they are definitely making me laugh.  I am not shy, nor am I timid, both qualities that I think will help me fare much better in my position.

Each class is 50 minutes long and comprised of 20-35 students, and I teach 23 classes per week.  The students range in age from 15-17 years old, and classes are separated by gender.  All Korean students attend public schools during the day, and then attend additional lessons at private academies during the evening and sometimes Saturdays.  My average student begins school at 8:30 AM, finishes normal classes at 4:40 PM, then stays at the school for supplemental lessons.  The student eats dinner at the high school before leaving to attend private lessons, and probably returns home somewhere between 10 and 11 PM.  So when a student doesn’t seem to care about my once-a-week 50 minute English lesson, or falls asleep in my class, I can’t really say I blame him.

Students’ English levels are generally very low, much lower than I expected.  Though classes are organized according to some kind of skill assessment system, ability levels within each class vary widely.  My co-teachers tell me that much of the students’ schooling prior to high school has been poor or undisciplined.  Some students are able to string together full, meaningful sentences, and others don’t yet know the Roman alphabet.  One student was skilled enough to write “FUCK U J” in thick black marker on the back wall of the classroom.

During my first week of teaching I prepared an introductory PowerPoint for the students about my life in America, the importance of English, classroom rules and expectations (ha, right…) and a short quiz on that material.  Then I invited the students to ask any questions they may have about me, English, or America.  The questions I was asked every class without fail were these:

Married?
How old?
You have boyfriend?
Oooooh, boyfriend, he Korean?
You like kimchi?
Your hairstyle, real?
In Yangsan, where you live?
America, guns?
Do you have gun?
Eyes, what color?
Do you know Psy? Gangnam Style?

Some more original questions included these:

Have you seen Backstreet Boys? (Incidentally, I HAVE been to a Backstreet Boys concert!)
Do you like Soju? How much you can drink?
You like Obama? True he did the drugs? (Korea is a conservative culture, so I responded that it was an unconfirmed rumor, only to find out that the kid had read his autobiography. What??)

During the second week of classes I prepared lessons and activities related to American markets, food and culture.  The students and teachers found the food both intriguing and grotesque.  Things like tomato soup, gravy, and root beer floats were especially perplexing, while apple pie was a huge hit (perhaps in part because a container of 3 apples may cost the equivalent of 9 or 10 American dollars here).

My lessons went over quite well with both co-teachers and students, but perhaps my smartest teaching decision was showing this video in every class. 


My audiences were mesmerized.

Teaching is challenging, but also entertaining and rewarding, and I am lucky to be working with very competent, helpful co-teachers.  I look forward to getting more comfortable in my position and getting to know my students and co-workers better.

XOXO

Ms. A

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Beomeosa Temple

EntranceTurtle/Dragon PillarsWarrior Door 2Warrior Door
StairsFlowersFetching Sacred WaterA Drinks Sacred WaterB Drinks Sacred WaterYoung Buddha
B StatuesA StatuesMore StatuesScenic Statues 2Scenic StatuesStatues 2
StatuesLittle BuddhasZodiac StatueYear of the HorseZodiac StatueYear of the Snake

Beomeosa Temple, a set on Flickr.

Last weekend, we ventured into Busan to visit Beomeosa Temple. It was Alyssa's first temple visit ever and Ben's first in Korea. Beomeosa was originally built in the early 1600s; Beomeo is Korean for the "Nirvana Fish" that was believed to live in the Sacred Natural Spring in the mountains surrounding the temple. A very large percentage of Koreans are Buddhist and many of the buildings were being used for prayer and meditation by visitors and monks. The scenery was beautiful and these pictures do not do it justice, but hopefully you enjoy them nonetheless.

A+B

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Our Yangsan Apartment!

Our Apartment BuildingWelcome to the Apartment!KitchenFrom the DoorwayCabinets...AppliancesBathroom/Shower
Laundry RoomMorning view of Yangsan Tower.Path through our neighborhood.Mountainous BackdropBeomeo High School, where Alyssa works.One more of Beomeo HS.
Yangsan RiverPublic exercise equipment by the waterfront.The wetlands behind our apartment complex.Close up of a heron on a lamppost.Namyangsan StationYangsan at Night
Shopping and FoodAlyssa in Yangsan!

Our Yangsan Apartment!, a set on Flickr.

Finally, we get to share our living space with you guys! The basics: TV, AC, a refrigerator, microwave, bed, range, toaster (EDITOR'S NOTE: our contract stipulates that either a toaster or a rice cooker will be provided and somehow through initial conversations with Alyssa, her co-teacher decided that we would prefer a toaster. We were told they bought the most expensive toaster at the store though!), Internet, table and chairs, washing machine, vacuum cleaner and some cabinets. No, we don't get a dryer because those never seemed to catch on in South Korea so instead we use a big drying rack. We have since added a wireless router, water heater, a rice cooker and a couple of our own decorations. It is a really clean, nice place with a kitchenette in the entry way and a bathroom that doubles as a shower!

The apartment complex is literally 2 blocks from a subway station; Namyangsan (South Yangsan) is the 2nd to last stop of the Busan Subway Line 2. Within a few block radius, there are probably more than 100 restaurants and if you increase the radius to a 10-15 minute walk, that number increases rapidly. Instead of keys, the front door of the apartment building is opened with a key code as is the door to our studio, #206.

Enjoy the pictures of our apartment!

A+B

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Settling In

Hey Everyone!

So I've been here for half of a week or so and I am starting to settle in a little. I've at least gotten adjusted to the time difference by now. Alyssa has already started work but I do not begin until October so I have been unpacking and trying to get things straightened out at the apartment. Good news, I have started taking my camera out and will have pictures to post, most likely later today! The food has been really good but without being able to speak Korean, Alyssa and I are pretty much left at the whim of whoever is serving us. Many a meals involve us looking at a menu for pictures and being unable to find any. When that is the case, the waiter usually says something to us in Korean to which we agree and await to see what we just ordered. Most of the time, we have ordered some sort of meat that we cook on a little grill in front of us or that is prepared in the kitchen, combined with some rice and many Korean side dishes ranging from kimchi/pickled vegetables to spicy squid to seaweed to garlic cloves and plenty more. This type of meal also comes with lettuce for us to make bite-sized wraps of meat/rice/veggies and it is delicious. Alyssa tells me it is called "sam" which I believe just refers to food wrapped in lettuce. I haven't explored Yangsan too much but it is a surprisingly beautiful place! Obviously, I had never heard of Yangsan (or even Busan) at this time last year but it has a very unique beauty that could definitely be talked about alongside plenty more popular travel destinations. As Alyssa mentioned, there is the Yangsan river which runs very close to our house and the city is surrounded by huge, incredible mountains covered in trees. It is quite the site to see huge apartment complexes that look so big on their own, completely dwarfed by the mountainscape behind them. We will be uploading some pictures of our apartment and the area soon! Yesterday, we visited the Buddhist Beomeosa Temple (pronounced Po-mo and "sa" means temple in Korean but the signs said both "sa" and "Temple"...) which was awesome! Originally constructed in 1614 up in the mountains of Busan, it was quite an experience. More info and pics to come. Also got some food pictures so you can follow along as we "Eat Our Way Through South Korea" :)

B

Monday, September 17, 2012

I have arrived... well sort of...

I think it is good that I am writing this letter now as opposed to some hours ago. If I had written a post upon arrival in Beijing it would have been focused around my not being able to sleep much in the middle seat, the sitting on the runway for two hours before take off (delay), missing my connection to Busan (or maybe it was cancelled because of the typhoon, I couldn't really get an answer to that one...) and finding out that there are no flights today, that I am leaving tomorrow.

But instead, I am writing after I received vouchers from United Airlines. After a stressful walk around the Airport talking to multiple information desks and following a random Chinese guy that said he was going to Crowne Plaza as well, I am now sitting in my paid-for room with a king-size bed on the 11th floor of tower 1. My room has American power outlets so I can charge my electronics, I have a big TV and my bathroom contains a shower AND a bath tub. It is 3:40 am my time and I am not in Korea, so it is not what I wanted and I am still not sure how tomorrow is going to go because I arrive in the middle of the day when Alyssa is teaching. But my initial freaking-out has subsided and I am going to go downstairs to find wifi and upload this post. Then I am going to check out what is available for dinner (which is also covered by a UA voucher) and probably use said bath and get to sleep. Will be waking up tomorrow around 5:30 Beijing time so I can get to the airport. Wish I had more to update on my being in Korea but unfortunately that will have to wait another day...

-B

Sunday, September 16, 2012

And so it begins...

As I sit in a PC Bang, surrounded by adolescent boys, their animated but unintelligable chatter, and the sound of explosions and weapons clashing on nearby Starcraft screens, I can't help but feel immersed in Korean culture. Each of the last few days has quickly and steadily pulled me further into "real life" in South Korea.  It's the little things you never anticipate that feel the most profound.  Like how I find myself instinctively bowing my head upon meeting new people, or when I suddenly realize my inner dialogue has assumed a Korean accent.  Is this me?...Oh right, this is me being in South Korea.

On Friday I went to the Gyeongsangnam-do school board in Chongwan City and was introduced to my Co-Teacher, Mrs. Lee Su-O.  She is a friendly, generous woman with a good sense of humor, and has asserted that she will be my "Korean Mom." (Thank God!) We went out to lunch for samketong* at a traditional Korean restaurant where you take off your shoes upon entering and then sit on the floor for the duration of your meal.  Su-O says the Koreans have now heard that sitting on the floor is bad for their bodies, and they are slowly trying to implement the use of chairs.  We chatted through the meal, and she informed me that my paperwork had said that I was a male, and she was--along with everyone else I met that day--surprised and delighted to find that I was in fact, a young woman.  Apparently female teachers are much more exciting for some obscure reason I couldn't quite elucidate.  As I shifted positions on the floor to awake my sleeping leg, Su-O also gave me a serious warning.  She wanted me to know that my students are the "naughtiest in all of Yangsan. I must not smile at them or look kind, they must know I am stubborn and mean."  When I inquired as to why they were so naughty, she pondered and then responded that Yangsan has a lot of industry, so the people are rich but not very educated.  A troublesome combination anywhere in the world, I suppose.  Looks like my students will provide a steep learning curve for a new teacher.

After lunch we ran errands, opened me a bank account, took me for a medical check at the hospital**, and purchased some ammenities to stock my studio apartment (photos to come).  After a tiring and tedious day, Su-O insisted that she treat me to dinner.  Though I knew she must have wanted to go home to her family, in Korea it is customary for those in higher positions to take care of subordinates' meals, and to refuse her offer would have been perceived as rude and ungrateful.  As we drove through "Old Yangsan"*** looking for a restaurant, we were passed by a large truck, behind which billowed fluffy white clouds that suddenly consumed the car and left us momentarily blind.  I gasped, surprised, and turned wide-eyed to Su-O for explanation.  She laughed whole-heartedly.****

--"They don't do that in America?" She asked. "It's to kill the bugs."
--Uh oh, I thought. "Is it bad for you?"
--"No, it's not bad for you, " Su-O shook her head, "It stops the infectious disease."

Hmmm, I had marveled at the astonishing absence of bugs in such a humid, sultry climate.  I can only hope the clouds weren't DDT, the carcinogenic, ecosystem-destroying pesticide the US banned over 30 years ago.  If you know me much, you know I love bugs, but in addition to killing bugs pesticides tend also to decimate bird populations and having not seen many birds yet, I began to sincerely worry, and prepared myself for heartbreak.

You can imagine my relief and gratitude when yesterday I discovered a wetlands preserve right behind my apartment complex! Though now submerged and gated off, the marshy habitat featured a boardwalk around its perimeter that I look forward to using in the future, once the water drops.  From the sidewalk I could spot a great blue heron, two white herons, and two baby ducks!  I could not be more pleased.

Later in the day, I also discovered that the Yangsan River runs just two blocks away from my apartment, and is bordered on either side by a public path complete with benches and exercise equipment.  The path goes all the way to Busan, at least 10 miles.  Today I went for a long run along it and saw several herons on the river, and even some crickets jumping across the trail!  I've heard that the mountains surrounding Yangsan are full of hiking trails with the same public exercise equipment, as staying fit is very important to Koreans.  : D

So far Yangsan is provng a very hospitable place, and I look forward to exploring it further.  In addition to solo adventures, I have also met and spent time with a couple other english teacher in the area, which provides a welcome respite from things foreign.  I should start teaching this week, but there is a typhoon landing on the coast tomorrow morning and I have been informed that school might be cancelled due to the weather.  Ben gets here tomorrow night, and I can't wait for him to catch up!!

More to come.

XOXO

-A


*Sam = Ginseng.  Ke = Chicken. Tong = Soup.  But believe me, it's a lot more interesting than that ; ) 

**This happy excursion included hearing and sight tests, a dental examination, a chest x-ray, a urine sample, blood sample, and a stool sample acheived by sticking a q-tip up my butt, supposedly "for my health".

***Apartment buildings 20+ years standing are considered old, and will soon be rebuilt by the gov't.

****Korean people laugh a lot.  Even in a serious conversation between two co-workers Koreans will crack jokes and make each other laugh out loud.  On the whole they strike me as a very happy, jovial group.  For instance, when I pointed to a set of high rise apartments and said that I had thought I would live up high in one of those because they are all around, Su-O laughed out loud. She said that the higher up in the apartment building you live, the nicer the apartment, and the more apartments in the building, the more expensive they all are.  I live on the second floor of an apartment complex with four stories.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Waking up in SoKo... 2BREAKFASTZ!!!

After a long and much-appreciated night's sleep in Busan's "Motel Prada" I went out for my first little explore this morning, to find some breakfast and a bank where I could cash a few traveler's checks. 

Though I was a little discouraged when the hotel concierge told me there was nothing but "kimchi-ga and water" nearby, an initial walk down the street quickly proved otherwise.  The streets are narrow and crowded with high rise buildings and bright, neon signs featuring winking cartoon figures and (to me) indecipherable hangul titles.  But I don't mind that everything seems like secret code, I have a hunch that if I could read them I might not find them so pleasant : )  The street level of these high rises is- about 75% of the time- some kind of food venue, be it a cafe, a noodle joint, or someplace with a lot of pictures of raw meat on the windows.  My favorite so far was a "sliced raw fish" restaurant with a few big aquariums outside its door on the sidewalk.  Where in America you could expect to see those aquariums filled with lucky crabs or lobsters, these ones featured eels, rockfish, and some kind of eyeless fish(?) with a sucker on its head that I never even knew existed.

On my way to the bank I couldn't help but stop in a couple different cafes, where I got surprisingly good iced americanos (albeit without cream, I don't think milk in coffee is a "thing" here), some premium walnut pastry balls (a bag of twelve donut-hole-like things, still hot, filled with chocolate/nut cream and a walnut...great! Though I thought I was ordering one...) and then some "fleecy cloud bread" (ambiguous, but delicious).

People here are fairly receptive to my extremely limited Korean skills, and usually know a bit of English and go out of their way to help me communicate.  When I try to say anything in Korean (I've got "hello" and "thank you" down) I invariably get giggled at, which I might find disheartening if it weren't so adorable and I presume, well-meaning.

So at first taste? I like Korea!! I'm looking forward to sharing more adventurous adventures, but for a first jaunt around the block, this was pretty fun.

(Apologies for the lack of pictures so far, limited resources for uploading atm)

Stay tuned, folks : )

XOXO
-A

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Here I go...

...finally off to SoKo! Ben will follow soon and we will be maintaining this blog to keep all our friends and loved ones back home up-to-date with our adventures!! (food-related and otherwise) xoxo